NEWS

Angle Cut Front

Angle cutting the hair, especially with long hair styles is a matter of creating guide points to give you the parameters in which to work, and using consistent elevation when cutting the hair. The first step is to comb the towel-dried hair until smooth and part the hair down the center of the head from the forehead to the nape of the neck. Comb the two halves of the hair forward over the shoulders. With the head held vertically (straight up) choose your starting point. This will determine the length of the shortest strands in front. This is done by taking the center strands of hair (about 1/2-inch wide segment) holding the hair out at a 45-degree angle to the floor, deciding on a length and cutting a guide using a vertical cutting line. If your hairstyle features bangs, pull a thin segment from each side of the bangs area and pull them forward and hold them together in front of the face (use the nose as a marker to center the hair), decide on the length, and cut your guides using a vertical cutting line. Continue by combing segments of the hair from each side forward to meet in the center. Maintain the hair at a 45-degree angle of elevation, and cut the hair to the length of the guide cut using a vertical cutting line. By bringing each side forward together, you can be more assured of an even cut.

Clipper Cuts

Barbering clippers usually have adjustable length settings on the permanent blade guard, and have removable "length guards" that allow the user to cut the hair to a uniform short length quickly and easily. (This speed and convenience is what allows most barbers to charge less for a haircut than most salon stylists who use scissors.) These length guards are numbered and the numeric designation correlates to a specific length. There is slight variation in the exact length of a guard from one maker to the next but they are generally standardized. This makes it possible for a man who usually keeps his hair very short to go to a barber in a new town and say "I want a #2 (or whichever) cut" and come away with something at least very close to what he normally wears.

Undercutting or Inverse Layering

Very wavy hair can be problematic in trying to create the curved under style, since the back and forth alternating directions of the hair's bends can mean that the natural direction of the hair is to turn outward rather than inward where you wish it to. This hair type needs additional styling efforts to ensure the directing of the hair and can probably be achieved with the use of a blow dryer and round brush. Curly and very-curly hair is also problematic for obvious reasons. These hair types require more strident styling to create the direction you want for the hair. In addition to the blow-dry styling with a round brush, you will want to use a flat iron or a large-barrel curling iron to heat style the hair and create the desired direction. Both of these hair types and styling methods are subject to the effects of humidity and can revert to their natural states easily with moisture and heat in the environment. Yet even those women with very straight and mostly straight hair often have difficulty getting that curve under effect. This is usually because the thickness of the hair results in too much bulk in the underside that pushes the hair outward along the natural curve of the neck. This is where the need for special cutting techniques comes in.